Marrakech has two night-time lives that barely ever meet: the medina's, which revolves around Jemaa el-Fna and winds down around midnight, and that of Gueliz and Hivernage, where the bars and clubs open as the first one closes. Choosing your area is choosing your evening, far more than choosing your address.
The two evening cities
| Medina | Gueliz and Hivernage | |
|---|---|---|
| Atmosphere | Squares, terraces, street music | Bars, restaurants, clubs |
| Hours | 6 pm to midnight | 8 pm to 3 am or later |
| Alcohol | Rare and discreet | Widely available |
| Dress | Covering, comfortable | Free, often smart |
| Budget for an evening | 100 to 300 MAD | 300 to 1,500 MAD |
| Getting home | On foot or ordered taxi | Taxi, with night surcharge |
A good trip often combines the two: one evening on the square and the terraces, another in Gueliz. Doing both the same night is possible but tiring, because there are twenty minutes of taxi between them and the rhythms do not follow each other.
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Jemaa el-Fna, how it works
The square changes character completely at nightfall: the food stalls go up, the circles of musicians form, and the crowd thickens. It is the city's most striking spectacle, and also the moment you are approached most.
- Arrive around 6.30 pm to watch the set-up, which is worth as much as the spectacle itself.
- Ask the price before sitting down at a stall, and before any photo with an animal or a musician.
- Eat where Moroccans eat: high-turnover stalls move fast, the best indicator of freshness there is.
- Go up to a cafe terrace for the overview, but do not count on dining there: you pay for the view, not the cooking.
- Keep your bag in front of you. It is the one place in the city where pickpocketing is a genuine subject.
Rooftops, and what they are actually worth
Marrakech is a city of terraces, and sunset over the medina with the Koutoubia in silhouette is one of its finest moments. Two honest caveats. First, the best-known rooftops mostly charge for the view: the cooking is rarely the reason to go. Second, the useful window is short, thirty to forty minutes around sunset, and it needs booking.
So the right use is a drink at sunset, then dinner elsewhere. In winter, bring a jacket: the month-by-month weather guide is a reminder that the temperature drops thirteen degrees after 6 pm.
The third way: the evening at home
This is the underrated option, and often the best one on a group trip. Dinner laid in a garden, an open bar, music, and nobody watching the clock for the last taxi. It generally costs less than an equivalent evening in town for eight or twelve people, and it removes the night-time journeys.
Our three houses all allow it, with different characters: Bab Akoul Medina to finish the evening on foot after the square, Bab Akoul Palmeraie and Bab Akoul Atlas for quiet and space, at the cost of a drive. The villa private-hire guide sets out what a private hire includes, and the Events and stays page lets you write to us.
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Alcohol, Ramadan and particular days
- Alcohol is served in hotels, licensed restaurants and the bars of Gueliz and Hivernage, far more rarely in the medina.
- It is not consumed in the street, and it is better to be discreet carrying it.
- During Ramadan many venues suspend alcohol service and hours change. The city is, on the other hand, very lively after the fast is broken, often until late.
- Friday and Saturday evenings are the busiest; a Monday night in the medina is very quiet.
Getting home without a surprise
This is where evenings sour, and it is entirely avoidable. After 9 pm taxis apply a surcharge: the fare moves from 70-150 dirhams to 150-200. Fix the price before getting in, or better, have the restaurant or your accommodation order the taxi. If you are staying deep in a derb, ask to be met at the gate. The Marrakech safety guide covers the useful habits, and the three-day Marrakech itinerary fits the evenings into a three-day plan.
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Marrakech nightlife: frequently asked questions
What is there to do in Marrakech in the evening?
Two main options: the medina around Jemaa el-Fna, with food stalls and street music, from about 6 pm to midnight; and Gueliz or Hivernage for bars, restaurants and clubs, from 8 pm until 3 am or later.
Can you drink alcohol in Marrakech?
Yes, in hotels, licensed restaurants and the bars of Gueliz and Hivernage. It is far rarer in the medina, and drinking in the street is not accepted.
Is Jemaa el-Fna safe in the evening?
Yes, it is a very busy, animated square. The one real risk is pickpocketing in the crowd: keep your bag in front of you. Also ask the price before any photo or order.
Are the rooftops worth it?
For a drink at sunset, yes, and the view of the Koutoubia is remarkable. For dinner, less so: the best-known rooftops mostly charge for the view. The useful window is short and needs booking.
What time does the medina close?
Shops close progressively from 8 pm and the activity on Jemaa el-Fna subsides around midnight. Gueliz then takes over.
How much does an evening in Marrakech cost?
Allow 100 to 300 dirhams per person for an evening in the medina with a meal on the square, and 300 to 1,500 for dinner and drinks in Gueliz or Hivernage, depending on the address.
